Looking out on the axis of evil from a rogue state
Tonight Shawna and I climbed to the top of a hill and watched the sun set from a castle in Palmyra, Syria. The locals told us the border of Iraq was just 400 km away. For a photo click here.
It isn’t often I find myself in a “rogue state.” Ok, I’ll admit, it never happens. Syria is my first. When the opportunity first came to go to Syria I was a little intimidated, scared even. I want to travel and see the world more than anything, but I didn’t want to do this at the expense of my own life. That sounds dramatic, and I surely wouldn’t have come here if I thought my life was actually at risk, but the fact is that — even for just a moment — the thought crossed my mind
At the border crossing I was greeted with multiple photos of the country’s ”immortal leader” Bashar Assad and men dressed in military garb. Yet, I also saw signs that said “Welcome to Syria” (in English!) and was taken aback by the kindness of strangers who helped us at the border. From then on we have been treated better than I could have ever hoped for. People seem surprised, yet pleased, when we tell them we are from America. When Shawna speaks to strangers in Arabic they are happy to know she learned how to speak their language in the U.S. We have received more invitations to people homes for dinner than I can even count.
The locals tell us life in Syria has been very tough because of the war in Iraq. A newlywed couple we spoke to in our hotel in Palmyra last night told us even the lives of Bedouins have been impacted. The price of food for their sheep has skyrocketed since they used to get food from their closest neighbor, Iraq, and now must look elsewhere. When we were in Aleppo the power cut off from 8 to 9 a.m. and 3 to 4 p.m. every day. In Palmyra it is from 6 to 8 p.m. I’m haven’t verified this, but our new friends in Palmyra said they are conserving here so they have electricity to send to Iraq. The people in Palmyra — Syria’s top tourist destination — have to depend on the money they make here to support their large extended families. Times are tight. I try to remember this as we are being bugged by restaurant owners, tour guides and taxi drivers who want our American money.
Sometimes we apologize for our government and the problems the war has caused. The Syrian people always say in return, “There is no need to apologize. You are welcome here.”
Note: This blog was posted on January 21, 2009. It was originally written on January 14. I didn’t post while in Syria because I didn’t want to do anything that could jeopardize my time in the country.

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